The Moonphase of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar is a Representation of Superior Watchmaking

HM Jewelers
December 22, 2023
min read

Getting to Know the Patek Philippe Nautilus Gérald Genta is a legendary watch designer whose impact can be felt for decades in the world of horology. His designs have had a lasting impact on the industry, ranging from the Omega Constellation to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. But in order to capture the essence of a new age, Patek Philippe took a bold step in 1976 and enlisted Genta's design expertise.

The Nautilus was created, a watch known for its unique and adventurous style. It was a declaration of timelessness, not just a watch. In the modern era, the Nautilus is still one of the most sought-after timepieces worldwide, the ideal accessory for sophisticated watch connoisseurs. Come along on a voyage to get a close-up look at this masterpiece of watchmaking.

The Annual Calender

Learning to Use the Annual Calendar: Of all the intricacies present in mechanical watches, the annual calendar is one of the most useful. You'll only need to modify your calendar for leap years every four years, which is a testament to how user-friendly it is. Recessed micro-pushers that were carefully incorporated into the side of the case and triggered with a tool supplied by Patek Philippe allow for this ease.

Today, we're going to talk about a specific yearly calendar watch that has a unique feature: two windows that show the day and month. This exquisite and practical design is positioned prominently at 12 o'clock, tucked behind the Patek Philippe emblem, and subtly adorned with the word "Geneve" just below.

The complexities don't stop there, though. If you look down to six o'clock, the date window is nicely positioned next to the visually appealing Moonphase indicator. The 24-hour day/night indicator, your reliable partner in differentiating between morning and night settings, rounds out the setup in a sub-register.

The Dial

A Closer Look at the Dial: Upon first glance at the grey radial gradient dial, you will notice that it is incredibly well-structured and aesthetically pleasing. The recognisable horizontal linear guilloche pattern, which gives the design depth and a sense of dimension, supports the elegance of the dial. The luminous appliqué hour markers are very visible, even in dim lighting, guaranteeing maximum legibility.

This dial's flawless writing is what really makes it stand out. Everything about the design is crisp, clear, and readable—from the brand's emblem to the yearly calendar windows to the numbers that garnish the day/night indicator. The sans serif font choice highlights this watch's sophisticated and contemporary design even more.

The Case

The octagonal casing of the Nautilus watch is an unmistakable feature. Gerald Genta, a well-known watchmaker, is credited with bringing this distinguishing identity to a limited number of cherished timepieces. There is a legend that this amazing form was inspired by the portholes found in submarines.

The Nautilus, with its 40mm case, was a sizeably large watch for its time when it debuted on the horological scene. With dimensions of 40.5mm and a slim case thickness of 11.30mm, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, model #5726/1a-001, stays true to the original's heritage in a time when watches seem to be racing to get bigger. And it doesn't end there. Thanks to the trustworthy screw-down crown, this gorgeous watch can withstand up to 120 metres (400 feet) of water.

The Bezel

The Nautilus's eloquent bezel, which is surrounded by recognisable "ears" on both sides of the case, is one of the watch's most recognisable features. These ears have a clear function: one is a hinge, and the other, which is its opposite, fastens the watch firmly.

It's the flawless polish on the case that really draws the eye. A polished finish is skillfully applied to the outer bezel, inner links of the bracelet, the safe screw-in crown, and the inner facets of the bezel's "ears." The case, inner bezel, and bracelet are all beautifully crafted with a smooth, unidirectional brushed surface.

The Case Back

The enchanting view from behind: The watch's back side is a work of pure beauty, embellished with a clear sapphire case back. This exceptional viewpoint reveals the beating heart, the very centre of this marvel of watchmaking.

The Movement

The heart of precision is the in-house Patek Philippe 324 S QA LU 24H calibre, which powers the Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Moonphase 5726/1a-001. A 21kt yellow gold self-winding rotor keeps the watch ticking. At 28,800 oscillations per hour, or 4Hz, this extraordinary quality remains consistent, demonstrating its unchanging accuracy.

The movement, which houses 34 jewels, has the Spiromax® balance spring made by Patek Philippe. The terminal curve of this spring stands out because it was painstakingly made of Silinvar®, a material made of silicon that is well known for its resistance to magnetic fields. The Gyromax® balance, a free-sprung balancing system without a regulator that is expertly crafted to reduce friction and optimise balance inertia, perfectly complements this technical masterpiece.

The Spiromax® balance spring from Patek Philippe is a characteristic of the 34-jewel movement. This spring stands out due to its finely sculpted terminal curve made of Silinvar®, a material derived from silicon that is known for its resistance to magnetic fields. This technical marvel is complemented by the Gyromax® balance, a free-sprung balance system without a regulator that is painstakingly made to reduce friction and increase balance inertia.

With a beautiful 45-hour power reserve, this automated movement is impressive. The Calatrava cross, which adorns the rotor's anchor-like appearance, represents Patek Philippe's constant dedication to excellence. The movement becomes a captivating piece of art with every painstaking finishing procedure.

The Craftsmanship

There is no doubting the quality of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Moonphase 5726/1a-001's craftsmanship. Patek Philippe's uncompromising dedication to perfection is evident in every minute detail. The bezel, which is polished and has a smooth transition from a sharp edge to a brushed finish, is a prime example of the accuracy that went into creating this work of art.

This watch is not only stunning to look at, but it's also a wise investment because it holds its value astonishingly well over time. Contact us if you would want to own this marvel of watchmaking.

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