The Day-Date 36 'Jigsaw Dial': A Radical Break with Rolex Tradition

HM Jewelers
December 5, 2023
min read

The buzz surrounding Watches and Wonders2023 this year is at an all-time high, and Rolex is in the epicentre of it all.The Swiss giant Rolex has shocked us this time with a selection that is moreadventurous and diverse than the brand's conservative image suggests. Rolex haslong been a hot topic of conversation among watch enthusiasts. Of course, Rolexlovers can still expect the subtle improvements and line extensions theydesire, but among these expected changes, a few models showcase the company's morecolourful, fun side.

Among these daring visual attempts, the newRolex Day-Date 36 with its "jigsaw puzzle dial" may be the mostimpressive. It has a variety of champlevé enamel dial hues, vivid sapphireindices, delicate gold inlays, and an unusual date disc covered in 31 differentemojis rather than conventional numbers. The white gold Rolex Day-Date 36"Jigsaw Dial," which our crew had the honour of getting to know,cleverly combines Rolex's recognisable components with a youthful, whimsicalspirit rarely associated with the prestigious Crown.

The 36mm-wide 18K white-gold case of theRolex Day-Date 36 "Jigsaw Dial" is a sophisticated interpretation ofthe well-known Oyster case design cherished by watch enthusiasts. It exudes theclassic Rolex spirit, from the recognisable fluted bezel to the slender casesides and graceful tapering lugs. But in the world of white gold, thisinstantly recognisable shape emits a certain brightness and magnetic presencethat set it apart from similar-sized stainless steel competitors. The"Jigsaw Dial" Rolex's distinctive style may not be as overt as themodels in yellow gold or Everose, but it is still very noticeable. Rolexguarantees a strong 100 metres of water resistance, just like its Day-Datecompetitors, emphasising the balance between form and function.

The dial of the Rolex Day-Date 36 "Jigsaw Dial" is without a doubtits main star. Even from a distance, the dial of this watch distinguishes itunambiguously from others, despite the case's adherence to Rolex's traditionalstyle. A joyful and happy puzzle-piece pattern with parts in vibrant colours oforange, yellow, green, purple, and a surprisingly subdued red brings life tothe foundation's dazzling azure blue enamel. Narrow white gold inlays aresubtly inserted between these puzzle-piece parts, collecting light in amesmerising dance of highlights and giving the enamel a beautiful shine.Although this arrangement may not appear to have visual depth at first, closerexamination reveals a minor vertical dimension. The well-known faceted batonhands continue to give the wrist the classic Day-Date appearance, while thebaguette-cut sapphire hour markers add an additional layer of brightness andvitality.

The day and date displays, more than the kaleidoscopic dial, are what reallypush this model beyond of Rolex's more conventional, traditional bounds. Atnoon, Rolex replaces the typical days of the week with a vivid spectrum ofseven encouraging statements, each of which is highlighted by a differentcolour. The words "Happy," "Eternity,""Gratitude," "Peace," "Faith," "Love,"and "Hope" now adorn this unusual place.


The date window at 3 o'clock pushes thisaudacious departure even farther by substituting a variety of emojis for thenumeric day of the month. This is a remarkable departure from Rolex tradition,especially in light of the conflicting opinions of devotees regarding RichardMille's emoji-themed design for 2022. However, if you can look past therequirement to learn every word and emoji for every day and date, this watchemerges as a bold and fun statement, a change from the typical Rolexseriousness.


Breaking out from the solemnity andformality associated with a brand like Rolex is essential to enjoying thiswork. The brightest men enjoy "a little nonsense now and then," asGene Wilder once said.

 The in-house 3255 automatic movement fromRolex serves as the beating heart of the Day-Date 36 "Jigsaw Dial"model. This sturdy engine maintains accurate timekeeping thanks to adherence tothe brand's strict Superlative Chronometer precision standards. It beats at afrequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, maintains this high degree ofaccuracy, and has a remarkable 72-hour power reserve.


The 3255 movement makes use of a number ofcontemporary advances in addition to tradition. The extremely effective RolexChronergy escapement design, the blue Parachrom hairspring, and the Paraflexshock absorption system are notable elements that all contribute to improvedperformance and longevity.

Naturally, a precisely matched three-link President bracelet is a need forevery eye-catching Day-Date design. With its dazzling, slightly rounded linksand a covert hidden clasp, Rolex meets this expectation and ensures that everycomponent of this exceptional timepiece seamlessly matches the others.





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